Winter

The musk of braai smoke and sweet mixture of rooibos and coconut oil are the first memories of the morning as the days continue to get shorter and the nights clear cold. But we still stand over our fires, rubbing hands together over our meat late into the night. As exams come to a close and some of the international students begin to make their tracks back to the U.S., I say “sobanana” and continue on my epic journey with Alexis. Our latest adventures have had us squished on taxis (or mini buses as some call them) with absurd amounts of mamas and children as African house music bumps out the back speakers and we make our way to Gelvandale to feel the fresh hip hop as it comes straight out the mouths of the young Coloured men that stay there. This neighborhood sits at the top of the northern hills in Port Elizabeth and has view over the whole city as the sun sets over us and our vast philosophical conversations and some speculation of extraterrestrials. Conspiracy theory is a common topic of talk. The sky sears at the horizon and our potjie sits in a three-legged pot over our slow burning fire. This absolutely delicious concoction is a mixture of any and all vegetables one can muster, potatoes, meat and some mouth-watering spices. It simmers well past dusk and into a star spangled night for hours until the meat falls off the bone and burns our lips. I have happily gotten used to using my index and middle fingers to roll the food into bite size nibbles with the help of my thumb. This food is finger licking good. Unfortunately Gelvandale is not known for the hospitality that it consistently shows Alexis and I, but rather for its poverty, crime and informal settlement that shelters a population of immigrants. Many are shocked when I tell them that I am roaming those hills with friends who invited me to experience life on the other side.
These past four months have had me winding my self on several spools that I had little experience with previously. I found a nitch as a photographer that has provided ample opportunity for networking and leading me on a path to incredible experience. I have established myself as a woman who speaks her mind and still respects others opinions in a culture that this is not always readily accepted. Although this occasionally does not work in my favor, it has also allowed me to slip into tin shacks, wooden shelters and cement boxes that aren’t easily accessible for the average white woman. I am currently learning bit and pieces of three out of the eleven official languages here in South Africa to pay respects to those who welcome me into their homes. I consistently am smirking at my partner in adventure, Alexis, with disbelief at we are truly here.
My next adventures will take me on road trips with my family and then two girlfriends, Tania and Sadie, across this beautiful country. After numerous crazy stories are accomplished with these people I will be moving to Cape Town in August to begin my work at the District 6 Museum and hopefully starting up a local newspaper in Luwandle, a township right outside of CT. This will a be true test of my independence and knowledge of South African culture and history. Happy Youth Day kanene!